HEALTH HAZARD THROUGH COSMETICS?

SKIN PROBLEMS? INTOLERANCE-RELATED REACTIONS?

Here are a few examples of ingredients on cosmetics which have allergy-inducing, blackhead-promoting or other negative effects among others and are therefore not used in BELICO® COSMETICS:

MINERAL OILS / MINERAL WAXES

These are synthetic oils or waxes made from mineral oil, which can close up the skin in higher concentration and promote the appearance of blackheads.

Possible INCI-designations: Cera Microcristallina, Ceresin, Isohexadecane, Mineral Oil, Ozokerit, Paraffin (Oil), Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Vaseline and many others.

SILICONE OILS

Silicone components can have impregnating properties and an occlusive effect (plastic bag effect). They are used to improve the skin feeling, serve as emulsifying products, consistency providers or solubilisers.

Possible INCI-designations: Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclopen-tasiloxane, Dimethicone, and general INCI-designations with the word components...methicone... or ...siloxane...

PARABENS

Besides the desired conservative effect in the product, paraben is said to have the downside to continue to have this conservative effect even when in the human body. Autopsies performed on cancer tumours have shown residues of parabens. Deodorants containing paraben are thus suspected to induce breast cancer. Moreover, parabens are said to possess a high allergic potential.

Possible INCI-designations: Butylparaben, Etyhlparaben, Isobutylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, among others.

FRAGRANCE

Fragrance is a very complex mix of smelling agents, sometimes with hundreds of different odorant substances. Since they count among the most frequent allergy inducers, perfume should be avoided in care preparations.

Possible INCI-designations: Aroma, Fragrance, Perfume.

SUBSTANCES STIMULATING BLACKHEADS (COMEDONES)

Besides the already mentioned mineral oils, there is a series of other substances which are suspected to promote the formation of blackheads.

Possible INCI-designations: Cetearyl Alcohol, Eucerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Stearate, Lanolin and many more.

AGENTS PRODUCED FROM PEG AND PPG

They serve as solubilisers, emulsifiers and tensids and offer a more or less strong washing out of the skin-endogenous lipids. They disturb the functioning of the skin barrier and can have an irritating effect. Besides, they can produce highly creative peroxides with the effect of UV-light, which can trigger the well-known Mallorca acne with sensitive people.

INCI-designations with the word-components: Ceteareth, Ceteth, Ceteoleth, Laureth, Oleth, PPG, PEG, Polysorbate, Pareth, Steareth, among others.

Indication of sources:
Öko-Test, Cosmetics guide / Springer Cosmetics Dictionary / Course Book Cosmetics / wikipedia.org / cosmetics analysis.com / Dermatology, dual row / Acne, the way to the right treatment / Dr. T. Reuther - University of Hamburg

A WORD REGARDING CONSERVATION

More and more cosmetics are advertised using the phrases “without chemical conservatives” or “without conservatives”. But since sensitive agents and natural oils are contained especially in high quality products, which would spoil quickly without conservative agents, which begs the question what these advertising statements mean after all.

A cosmetic product which is not made durable could indeed only be used for a few weeks. Without some form of conservation or durability, micro-organisms multiply quickly in a cream, which is noticeable through many skin problems at first, and then through a visible or “odorant” spoilage of the product. This is also the problematic with homemade creams.

In compliance with the German cosmetics regulations (KV), 54 substances are listed as conservatives. The advantage when conserving with one of the aforementioned substances: They have been tested and authorized for this purpose, and can be regarded as safe by the consumer. The downside: Because of the fact that the same conservatives are used in most cases (for example parabens), an increased allergic potential has formed regarding different conservatives.

It is the case, that the advertisement statement “without (chemical) conservatives” may not be used anymore for a cosmetic product containing one of these 54 substances. On the other hand, this statement may be used as soon as the conservation of a product is based on the concentration of other substances which are not deemed to be conservatives by the cosmetics regulations. Here, there are several possibilities, as should be shown by the following examples:

The conservation of a product can be prolonged by high concentrations of chemical solutions such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol. The small dosage necessary as solubilisers is, however, not objectionable at all.

High glycerine and alcohol concentrations (INCI alcohol or ethanol) have conservative properties as well. A downside to be taken into account is the strongly drying-out or irritating effect of excessive glycerine or alcohol concentrations.

Moreover, the high perfume concentration, or ray- or heating techniques may contribute to making a product more durable. Whether the effect stays the same, no recontamination with germs appears after the filling and the exposition of a product to rays does not have more negative effects on the skin on the long term remains an open question.

Knowing these relations, the question one may ask oneself is, would it not be more sensible to make a product more durable by using selected and compatible conservation agents, rather than applying rays on products or using high dosage of other chemical products, only to be able to use the advertisement statement “without (chemical) conservatives”.

To ensure the best possible compatibility of all BELICO® Cosmetic preparations, it is important that our product be protected optimally from the influence of germs. To insure this, the durability of our products is provided by substances such as:

PENTYLENE GLYCOL

Moisturizing agent with anti-microbial properties.

BENZOIC ACID

Nature-identical conservative, found in nature in blueberries and cranberries. Authorized for food conservation and for “controlled natural cosmetics” by the BDIH.

SORBIC ACID

Nature identical conservatives appear in nature in the form of berries, and as a bound form in wine. Authorized for food conservation and for “controlled natural cosmetics” by the BDIH.

ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN

Soothing deo acting agent with anti-bacterial properties.